Summary: No question; just sharing info (i.e., primarily, a method for hacking a stock relay for manual control as an alternative to splicing into the wiring harness).Detail: Had my air conditioning serviced and the tech pointed out that my condenser fan was not coming on when he turned on the air conditioning (which he thought was abnormal/might be an indication of something not working right). Review of the FSM shows that the fan only turns on based on temperature (and does not turn on when the air conditioning is turned on). I like to make life easier for my machines and, apparently, I have too much time on my hands, so I modified my fan relay and wired it up to a toggle switch under the steering wheel so I could manually turn the fan relay on and off. The car can also still turn the fan on and off normally. Necessary? Nope. Running the fan moves some air through the condenser and thus removes some heat from hot working fluid. I suppose it moves a little air through the engine bay when at a stop. I'm happy to run the fan manually when I know it's hot under the hood and the vehicle is at a stop or at slow speed rather than waiting for temperature to rise to the threshold when the car will turn on the fan. Given that Nissan elected to run the fan based solely on temperature I guess that there is no vehicle speed at which heat management is worse with the fan on. Bill of Materials: relay (stock fan relay) hacksaw wire wire stripper soldering iron solder silicone gasket goo or other sealant crimp connectors etc as needed to complete your desired circuit Method (see photos): 1. Hacksaw off the end of the relay plastic case as close to the end as possible to avoid sawing into the metal innards of the relay; it's a tight squeeze). Keep the cut off portion to use as an end cap. Clean away debris from cutting. 2. Strip two wires (or one if you only need one). Twist and curl exposed strands into a "U" shapes to use as hooks in next step. Tin (i.e., put some solder on the) wires. 3. Hook wires (one at a time) around posts in relay corners (see photo) and lower wet soldering iron down into relay body to contact post and wire. Repeat as necessary to get a sufficient bead of solder and good contact between wire and post. 4. Cut corners of end cap so cap sits flat on relay case and doesn't interfere with the new wires. 5. Apply silicone gasket goo or other sealant to hold the cap in place and keep dust out of the relay. 6. Run the wires as needed (make sure you understand the circuits for safety!) and crimp/solder to complete desired connections. The wire gauge I used (20) was small enough that the lid of the relay box closed securely without modification (with the new wire running in between the lid and relay box body). My harness in the photo is shown for reference; it made use of other aftermarket wiring so an exact copy won't necessarily work for your application. I only needed (to ground) one of the two wires to operate the relay/fan. https://photos.google.com/search/_tra_/photo/AF1QipPvcRvpGb6Nx6tPFEvwHAw30k-jhnmJG1IoUuM https://photos.google.com/search/_tra_/photo/AF1QipPzEgOSCxsKl-xtyIIzyFMKcCeyZ63lvRus9EE https://photos.google.com/search/_tra_/photo/AF1QipNbbeKfogO-flxY_H3tjmFO4oL1AXTrWrCSwBU https://photos.google.com/search/_tra_/photo/AF1QipO5CQ102sLdTjsfIFZwBYbY5jOtU5Y-Vmc0RQw DosZveedaniya!
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